![]() ![]() ![]() He spotted a famous female Aymara TV personality browsing and told me that since a 2010 decree, every state institution and private company must have at least one female Aymara employee, and this has “improved their presence in the public sphere”.Īn upshot of this greater visibility is the city’s popular wrestling matches. Sandro explained that polleras worn by Aymara women are colour-coded by age and season – red for springtime and young love, for example. Piles of neon balls of wool, Barbie dolls, plastic flowers, and polleras (traditional pleated skirts) clamoured for our attention. To see the source of much of this wealth, Sandro and I headed inside the 16 de Julio market, jostling with some of the 100,000 locals who visit every Sunday to buy goods from Chile and China, and secondhand clothes from the US. Murals painted by Roberto Mamani (no relation) on apartment blocks in El Alto. Mamani’s reputation is growing apace: the architect has recreated his signature ballroom for an exhibition that opened at the Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art in Paris last week, entitled Southern Geometries, from Mexico to Patagonia (until 24 February). There is growing worldwide interest in indigenous architecture, with a new documentary film, Cholet, screened at the Architecture Film Festival Rotterdam last October a 2015 exhibition at the School of Architecture in London and published monographs. In the meantime, travellers can stay in at a B&B in an imitation Mamani buiding, Cholet Havana. Mamani will also complete his first hotel in El Alto in 2020. ![]() Mamani has designed buildings in Peru and Brazil, and a corner of the new museum Evo Morales built in his own honour in his native village of Orinoca. ![]() There are 70 Mamani cholet creations in El Alto (cholet is a portmanteau of the words chalet and cholo - meaning indigenous person once a derogatory term, it has been rehabilitated as a moniker of pride). ![]()
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